molecular arrangement for simpletons [plus two fun experiments you can do at home or for school science!]

not that anyone cares but for anyone who wonders how durability works or how one object the same as the one next to it can be stronger or weaker, heres a simple explaination:

molecules in objects function like sticks and balls of clay. take the sticks and stab randomly into the balls of clay then throw them into a clear glass bucket [or jar]. fill the jar with water, being sure to only fill it about 3/4 or so full and leave the lid off [freeze for the best effect, and frikin clean it people]. if you want a simple example use toothpicks, gumdrops, a glass pasta jar with the label torn off, and clear filtered water. this makes a good science project.
if you want to try this little experiment at home or just to impress your science or physics teacher youll need the following ingredients:
four glass pasta jars [with the labels removed and one jar with no lid]
a large assortment of toothpicks
gumdrops [jujubs]
water
a ruler
a large stone or a lump of clay or playdough about the width of the pasta jars [use the ruler to measure the opening at the top from one edge to the other. thats the diameter.]
a freezer
a screw driver or small metal hammer
a large plastic bucket or a large pan, or a large wide tall bowl [an oven sheet that you use to cook pizza on works. youre using it to hold water, glass, toothpicks, clay/pladough, and gumdrops. use the ruler again, it should be at least 2-3 times the width of the bottom of the pasta jar and at least 1/2 the height.]
a pencil.

the clear container represents your object [a car, carbon, iron, glass, a door, a house, or just a really simple example: a blade]. left alone and untouched the sticks and clay balls will slowly settle in the bucket of water till they stop moving [newtons law bitches!] as long as you dont jostle the container, touch it, add more sticks and balls or more water, or move the bucket, the innards of the said bucket remain the same.
this is essentially how the production of materials and goods like car parts and building equipment works. the finished product is a collection of tiny molecular chains that resemble little sticks and balls. these "sticks and balls" have what are giant pockets of "space" between them, and neither the "space" or the "sticks and balls" will ever move unless the materials are altered.
when these "objects" are altered [moved, touched, stressed, swung, struck, heated, cooled, etc.] the sticks and balls will move around. try it with your clear glass jar and the toothpicks and gumdrops. when the container is heated, cooled, struck, shaken, or moved, the sticks and balls inside will change their positions.
this movement can either be good or bad, and you can easily tell just by looking. when the sticks and balls rest low and clumped together tightly near the bottom of the bucket this means that the "material" that it represents is particularly strong. as there is little space between the molecular chains. this can be tested by dropping a large lump of clay or a small rock into the top of the jar and marking how far down the layer of sticks and balls drops.
when the sticks and balls end up placed in a means that leaves too much "space" between them this means the "material" is "inferior" or going to break. drop the rock or clay ball, if it PASSES THROUGH the sticks and balls THATS BAD. that means that whatever your jar represents [a house, a car, a government building, a blade, a gun, steel, a door, a wheelchair, a construction crane, congress, etc.] HAS JUST LITERALLY SHATTERED TO PIECES.
many cases of incidents where bad molecular construction resulted in materials failing and much suffering occuring exist.
the titanic, apolo 13, the twin towers, the statue of liberty, the golden gate bridge, several bridges in europe, the leaning tower of piza, the galaxy note 7 recalls [TWICE], the recent xbox charger dock recalls, and countless car dealership factory recalls.
now these incidents were obviously explained by means that werent bad molecular construction. however, molecular constuction effects all aspects of how a substance will perform when used. engineering and design is like building a watch; if one part is out of place or not built correctly then the entire watch may not work.
the idea here is that that bucket of sticks and balls in the water left untouched is the same thing as that sword [the one i mentioned at the top, yeah were back to that]. if you dont swing or use the sword the metal in it remains the same quality and craft. when you swing the blade its like tapping the bucket. the harder you swing the harder you tap. if you swing the blade harder than the material can handle, it bends or breaks [i.e. the barrel warps, cracks, or breaks].
when you strike an object with the sword its like striking the barrel with a stick. strike wood with the sword, strike the barrel with wood. strike stone, strike the barrel with stone. strike metal, strike the barrel wit- ok you get the picture here. if you strike an object with the sword that is stronger [has a batter molecular bond/construction], the blade will likely break or suffer severe damage. this is similar to newtons third law, only with an added effect that instead of an equal/opposite reaction you have a cause/double-effect reaction.
i like to refer to it as the "double-edged deflect-effect". where in when you strike an object that has an amount of mass GREATER than the object striking it, the object with the lesser mass and the lesser molecular density faces a bounce back molecular recoil equal to the amount of force unable to be imparted on and/or through said object.
example: you punch a brick wall, the wall obviously has more mass, density, and a higher molecular stability than your fist. as such, all the force you were attempting to put through that wall is then bounced back into your fist. and then the double-edged deflect-effect takes effect again, as your fist does not have enough density, mass, or molecular stability to contain all this energy; the remaining energy folows newtons law and continues up your arm till the molecules in it absorb the remaining energy.
the rule: dont punch a brick wall. or do, then send me a video. i mean, you DID click the disclaimer.
but back to the bucket thing, striking things with the sword is like striking the side of the bucket. each time you strike the bucket the sticks and balls will jostle [thats move around] in the water. in some cases striking the bucket can cause the sticks and balls to move in such a way that they become MORE compressed and as a result the "object" they represent would be stronger for striking. THIS is actually how tempering works.
the problem is that while the internal structure of the object may be getting stronger from these "impacts" [striking the side of the bucket], these impacts also weaken the buckets exterior. meaning that the blade can get stronger through tempering or by striking sometimes, but it becomes more brittle [likely to break].

try the equivalent of the above to your glass jar and tap it with your hand. just be careful when you do, though i doubt you break it bare handed. but try it with like lets say a screwdriver or hammer.
[but be sure to have the jar sitting in a large kitchen pot or pan or something, sayyyy.....a large plastic.....bucket? to catch the water and glass. for the love of all things uncut and unbloody be careful with the broken glass.]. youll see the toothpicks with the gumdrops in them as the fall down to the bottom of the glass jar as you repeatedly tap the side of the jar. eventually the jar WILL BREAK, so be ready for that. its what the big giant pan or bucket [haha] or whatever you chose to place the glass jar in before you started smacking it [please remember to put in in the thing BEFORE you start goin to town on it wit da hamma. cause i aint comin to yo place to clean up yo mess.]
now if you really want an idea of whats happening to your "sword" as its striking things, take that clay [or playdough, whichever you chose] and make a big lumpy ball.] if you use two more jars, [use the frozen one from earlier, then use two more and repeat what you did with the frozen jar. poke the gumdrops with the toothpicks randomly, throw them in the empty glass jar, fill it with water, place it in the tray or bucket, then repeat with the fourth jar [but leave the fourth jar aside alone.]
leave the frozen jar for now, place the lid on the new jar you just placed on your tray [or bucket or whatever]. shake the jar after seeing that the lid is on tight, then let the water settle. once the water stops moving and the toothpicks and gumdrops stop moving carfully take the lid off without jostling or moving the jar. carefully place the clay/playdough ball into the jar so that it rests on top of the pile of toothpick-gumdrop stick and ball stack. this new jar represents a newly forged sword, the ball of clay/playdough represents strain on the blade [a rock, a tree, another blade, maybe pushing against a gridnstone to sharpen it].
once everything stops moving again, start tapping the side if the glass jar. this tapping represents the sword striking objects, while the ball of clay/playdough [pushing the pile of toothpick-gumdrop stick and ball stack] represents the effect that the strain has on the blades molecular structure and stability. if you watch, as you strike the jar the pile of sticks and balls will slowly drop lower and lower. as will the ball of clay/playdough. this represents the molecular chains in the sword being compressed as the sword becomes stronger and denser.
eventually though one of two things will happen. either the ball will fall through the top layer of the toothpicks, meaning the blade just suffered internal structural damage. [even passing through one single toothpick means the blade just received damage to its molecular structure. meaning that its become weaker and more likely to break. the further down the lump of clay goes the more structural damage the blade takes. molecular damage is something that can be fixed ONLY through reforging, tempering, or smelting.]. or the jar will crack and break, representing the blade itself suffering a crack, scratch, fracture, shatter, or break. [a blade falling apart can be fixed ONLY by reforging or smelting. as once a blade is gone to pieces it cannot be rebuilt till all pieces are found and reforged back togther. or melted back into the same materials that they once were forged FROM.]
now for the interesting part of the experiment. remember the last two jars? the frozen jar and the unfrozen jar? get them together and be sure they have their lids on. if you tap the frozen jar youll notice that the sticks and balls inside remain unaffected. and if you break the jar the innards remain intact and the molecular bonds remain together. now if you start tapping the ice block itself youll notice that it just starts falling to pieces. eventually it just shatters and pieces fly everywhere, then when the ice melts you get water, gumdrops, toothpicks, and crud everywhere. this represents something called molecular destabilization, where an object does not have sufficient enough energy to hold the bonds together between its molecules. its messy. REALLY messy.
this also is a fairly safe and efficient example of splitting an atom. though a better example would be to take the frozen jar, chuck it as hard and far as you can, then after it shatters into a billion piaces, let the ice melt, let the gumdrops melt, let the toothpicks rot. splitting atoms causes atomic explosions [hiroshima and nagasaki, yeah that stuff. three mile island, trinoble, etc.] the first result is a chaotic energetic explosion [the glass, ice, toothpicks, gumdrops, the lid, all flying every which way]. then the second is a splatter of fire, ash, and freezing cold [the ice blanketing everything]. next is the nuclear fallout [the thawing of the ice to water]. then the slow rotting and decay of all things in the blast radius [the rotting of the toothpicks and gumdrops and the insects, mold, and god knows what else]. then finally the massive cleanup [where you call in the exterminators and professional cleaners to deal with the mess you left sitting in your house for like five weeks].
jokes aside this is serious stuff. and DONT FREAKING THROW THE FROZEN JAR AT THE WALL. just smack it with the hammer in the tray or bucket like the other jars. or you could try something else, tap the frozen jar against the unfrozen jar. this will show you how newtons third law and that double-edged deflect-effect functions.
[i know it has a REAL name. but i dont think theres a name for the specific reaction where an object faces recoil from striking an object of greater mass and density wherin the energy unable to transfer through and out the more dense object is then transferred BACK to the object that first delevered the energy. BUT newtons "continues in motion till acted upon..." then DOES apply]
see, while the two jars have identical [similar. i.e. the same things] materials inside them and on the outside, the physical density of the two objects and the molecular density of them is totally different. whats odd is that the frozen jar will theoretically have LESS density than the unfrozen jar, as water EXPANDS when frozen [LOSES density.]
but while the frozen jar has less density it has more molecular stability as its state of MATTER is different. when you tap the unfrozen jar LIGHTLY against the frozen jar, youll see the unfrozen jars contents jostle around and bounce here and about. this is showing that the frozen jar has more density and is thusly returning the kinetic energy that the unfrozen jar tried to send BACK into the unfrozen jar. thus shaking the jars contents, which is ALSO a very good representation of how a concussion works [the sticks and balls bouncing back and forth hitting the sides of the jar is your brain getting smacked around].

theres another fun thing you can do with this here that i tried once. i learned that ice theoretically can conduct electricity better than water. ice is less dense than water and thus leaves more space for electricity to travel through making it easier. however, electricity needs as lttle space as possible to travel. so try testing the electrical conductivity of normal water vs. frozen water.
youll need a volt meter, table salt, two mid sized household cups [made of plastic or rubber with no metal in them], two 9 volt batteries, some duct tape, rubber gloves, and some copper wire, you can substitute the battery and wire with a stun gun or a taser [yeah be careful about that one there].
first put on the rubber gloves. then wrap a piece of small copper wire around each side of the two 9 volt batteries then tape it over the round two top parts [but dont touch the wires]. put water in the two cups, add the table salt, put on cup in the freezer, freeze, then remove from freezer. now use the tape to tape the wired battery to the side of the cups, making sure that the wires touch the water. [dont freeze the damn battery with the cup. also you can bypass this via a taser but the volt meter may fry when trying to test current.]. once youve assured all this and checked that the two wires coming off the two metal rings on each battery dont touch, extend up the cups, into the water, and are close enough to get a current, test the water about an inch or so away from the wires to see which cup of salt water[frozen or thawed] produces a bigger current. [use the volt meter before taping the batteries to the cups to check the wires and see of they run a current. do this BEFORE putting the wires into the water.]

NOW WITH THAT LITTLE EXPERIMENT OVER. BACK TO THE LESSON. this bucket of sticks and balls represents essentially all things that exist in this megaverse of ours. and the small space between the sticks and balls in the water in the bucket that they lie in is the empty "space" that lies between the molecules in all things.
everyone should know the movie "ant man" that marvel put out by now. in the movie a suit was needed to shrink living things down due to them turning into goo. my best guess is that this occurs due to the shrinking simply treating the empty pockets of "space" between the molecular chains and the chains themselves like a giant jigsaw puzzle. where the molecular chains are simply rearranged and moved to where they get compressed together till all that empty "space" is gone and all you have left is a big lump of molecular chains with only enough space to just vibrate a little.
my guess is that since non-living things have constantly shifiting and changing cellular structures, the molecular chains are probably always moving. just like the example i gave of dropping sticks and balls in bucket full of water. my guess is that shrinking living things is like just suddenly busting a huge hole in the bucket and sucking out all the water in an instant. the result is all the sticks and balls [the molecular chains] falling to the bottom in a huge wet pile.
 in "civil war" you see the suit used to "grow". normally without the suit this would simply expand the molecules till, well, splat. my best guess is that the suit simply alters the molecular structure of the one wearing it so that their molecular chains are simply compressed and/or expanded accordingly. or possibly even shrunk or grown.
i only mention this because if one were to somehow find a way to see the space between molecules and alter the alignment of the molecular chains via removing all the empty space between them, one could theoretically shrink astronomically large objects down to astronomically small sizes [despicable me with the moon, superman with the mini city, the atom]. not possible with todays technology, but perhaps one day we could provide food and relief to soldiers and those suffering far away or infiltrate enemy facilities for top secret info to end these petty feuds.

storymaster19, signing off.

breath of the wild: easy rupees and where and how to upgrade armor [also second farosh location]

so if you are having issues getting rupees in breath of the wild there are a few tried and true methods that can bag you buttloads of rupees very fast with little effort.

1. cooking.
take ingredients [5 at a time] and cook them. fruit, meat, elixer materials, all of them bag tons of money and give major bonus rupees when cooked five at a time. however certain things get more bang for your buck.
tireless frogs, prime meat, anything that boosts attack or defense, and blue nightshade all give huge amounts.
if you dont have exactly 5 then dont cook more than 1 at a time or youre just going to lose money. also be careful what you cook with as some ingredients wont respawn till after a blood moon [which you can just force by spamming morning repeatedly by sitting in front of a campfire and choosing to "wait till morning"].
if you need materials to cook repeatedly simply use the shrines located nearby the four fairy fountains. then go to the fountains and collect the raw materials located around them. each fountain has at least 1-2 types of rather rare cooking materials surrounding it that can be repeatedly collected for cooking then selling. also the zoras domain shrine has fleet lotus seeds and bright eyed crabs and zoras domain itself has tons of sneaky river snails.


2. sell gems.
this is fairly self explainitory. simply collect various gems and rocks from the black shiny stones scattered across the lands searching far and wide [haha]. then sell the stones. most stones are worthless as they are just used for jewelry. though some are used for armor upgrades, for that info i refer you
HERE: https://rankedboost.com/zelda-breath-of-the-wild/armor-upgrades/#upgrade
this site lists ALL upgrades and all materials needed for said upgrades. including what CANT be upgraded.

3. sell monster parts.
this is a bit...unorthodox. most monster parts are used for upgrades or making elixers, while others are traded to kilton for mon [the freaky little monsterphiliac who rides in an up-style floating monster balloon shack-house]. the mon is used to buy interesting items like masks that prevent monsters like lynels from harming you [til you attack them] and wierd weapons like a spring hammer [that super smash bro styles your enemies across the battlefield]. the most useful of mon though is buying the dark link armor set which boosts speed at night [and costs buttloads of mon]. so really its up to you, the dark link armor night speed boost is the same boost as the shekia armor only the dark link armor rating is much higher [without the stealth boost]. to each their own.

4. buy. upgrade. sell.
ok this one is time consuming, annoying, lengthy, and may or may not pay out. but if you buy an armor set or piece of jewelry at its base level, then farm the wide open world for the raw materials needed to fully upgrade the said armor and jewelry [without spending money], you can then sell those armor and jewelry items.

5. farm farosh at the gerudo summit location i like to call "farosh's farming point".
found HERE: http://storymaster21.blogspot.com/2017/04/breath-of-wild-farming-for-farosh.html

6. sell "raw gourmet meat".
 a dude named "trot" who stays VERY close to the outskirt stable [like literally west of the oman au shrine below the wall after clearing the great plateau]. he will give you a side quest called "a rare find", then direct you to some location where animals congregate. screw following the quests directions. just start killing big rare animals like boars, bears, wolves, and deer and picking up meat.
youll see a piece of meat drop that looks like a meat triangle with a bone shoved through it.
not needed to say as youll just pick it up and itll say "raw gourmet meat". [actually just kill everything. except horses and chickens. unless you want to be a dick or die a horrible death. and yes, horses CAN die in this game. and chickens CAN AND WILL kill you in a humiliating and hilarious fashion. though chickens CAN ALSO be weaponized against other enemies. chickens are dicks, they dont care who they kill.]
but back on topic. if you take gourmet meat to trot he will buy it for 100 rupees a piece. hes hot to trot for this stuff and one wonders where in dins name he gets all this money he spends on the meat when he literally NEVER leaves the stable [says so himself] and im not sure he even gets paid that much. [wait where do these people even live? how do they eat? do they f!@#?]

7. now the longest and most complicated: the go to the "secret fishing hole".
ok so this one is fun but annoying. to get there and do this you need several items i will list below.
1. climbing gear or stamina potions for climbing the cliffs to the pond
2. ice arrows for the fire lizards
3. thunder arrows
4. your basic weapons and shields and bows
5. bomb arrows or a heavy weapon in case you accidentally fall into the crowd of bokoblins
6. either one marker point to use on your map or a glowing objective marker
now first go to ubota point in the southeastern faron region. [use the shai utoh shrine southeast of the lakeside stable if you want to get the closest to where you need to be]. once there head to the location i have marked with a red circle on the picture below [yes its ONE OF THESE again.]

sorry this one has such low quality. the problem is that this spot on the map is so small that the only way to be able to see it was to zoom to the point that it was this blurry. this said the location you are looking for is at the top of a cliff south east of the lakeside stable. it is the highest point up and is a small pond surrounded by a few red fire lizalfos [they drop fire arrows so you can farm fire arrows here as well.]
there are also buttloads of MIGHTY BAHNANAHS! in the surrounding area and a few towers with bokoblins using varying weapons. be careful of the tower spotters. the pond is a fairly obvious location to see as it is the highest point and is a small pond surrounded on all sides by solid land.
if you arent sure whether you are in the right place use the magnesis rune, as the pond has a gigantic metal slate of absolutely no use sitting in the bottom of it. [i guess you could maybe shoot it or use it as as a weapon or shield?]
once you find the pond simply shoot one shock [thunder - it sounds cooler] arrow into each end of the pond to get the following dead fish:
hyrule bass [definite]
hearty bass [definite]
armored carp [pretty sure]
mighty carp [pretty sure]
and i think i once got a staminoka bass
but the surrounding area is a great source of fire arrows [due to the fire lizalfos] and MIGHTY BAHNANAHS! as well as some pretty high level lizal bows and boko clubs from time to time. and at rare occasions from this fishing hole you can even catch farosh flying down into the lake below so if you get lucky you may kill two thing with one bing.

breath of the wild: farming for farosh

if you are having trouble finding a decent location to shoot farosh the thunder dragon to get upgrade materials [or rupees] then i have great news for you. ive found a location where he appears on the dot at roughly 7 am EVERY morning and he is low enough that you can shoot literally ANY part of his body to get whatever materials you need.
youre looking for the garudo summit. and a small valley between two rises where a powerful lynel resides on one side [dont worry about him.] the small valley is littered with adorable baby talus'. you need to place yourself in the middle of this valley and set a campfire. then wait till morning.
its important to have electrical resistance items and a fire based weapon. either wear rubber armor or use electric based food. cause farosh will shock your ass. youll need to stay near the campfire to avoid damage from the cold [and need wood, theres trees way off on a ledge near the kema kosassa shrine].

the black and red circles indicate the general location where you need to place your campfire. once done simply face left [west] then wait till morning. the red star indicates a magnetic treasure chest that will tell you that you are in the area where you need to be at. simply go here at about 7 am then, BOOM, farosh comes up the west side of the mountain and [quite literally] flies up into your face. 

from this point you can shoot his horn, body, feet, tail, even his eye. so go to town. his scales sell for 400 rupies a piece so this can get you lots of rupies.

and as for the location where the dragon parts fall when shot, they tend to fall fairly close in the vascinity of the valley walls where you sit to wait. so no worries or wandering.

*minor edit: farosh has a tendency to appear at this exact location EVERY SINGLE DAY AND NIGHT. he will fly up, around the south face of the gerudo summit, swirl to the west, then spiral down to the western entrance to the small valley pass where the location on the map above is marked. he passes through that location marked with the black circle each day and night

if you want an idea of when, where, or how to find him; keep reading below.

ok heres another edited photo:

ok so youll see the added green circle.

this indicates a jumping point. if you jump from here headed to where that purple circle is in the direction of the blue arrow [illustrated above] this will fly you in the direction of the kema kosassa shrine [which you should be able to see from either the green circle or the air while flying]. 
from the kema kosassa shrine looking up towards the gerudo summit you can clearly see when, where, and how farosh is approaching the small valley where i instructed you to camp out for him and wait. youll see him fly up, then left, then down, then straight into the low valley. 
check your time then go make camp and wait accordingly. 
you can also use the kema kosassa shrine as a means to fast travel back to this location if you need to come back later for some unforseen reason [or just want to shoot dragons]. just be careful trying to run up to the gerudo summit to climb up to where that black circle area is as there is a collection of particularly nasty ice lizalfos, a silver bokoblin, and a white lynel on the southern peak of the summit. [just haul ass and youll be ok. but just in case have stasis and ice arrows ready, if you dont want to fight. or do, silver bokoblins drop rare gemstones and lizalfos drop powerful bows. lynels....well lynels, they drop powerful yous.]
[and you do need to go there as that location in the middle is the only place where farosh actually nearly literally headbutts you in the face by leaning down and is where he dives the lowest [thus the only spot low enough to guarantee a shot to the tooth, horn, claw, tail, or body with 100% regardless of the quality of the bow you use.].